Uganda
In 2019 I travelled to the Pearl of Africa, Uganda, with a stopover in Kigali, Rwanda. I spent most of my days in the western part of the country, trekking with gorillas and otherwise exploring the rich forests of the Albertine Rift. I also joined a game drive to search for lions, without success, in the Ishasha sector of Queen Elizabeth Pational Park. And went herping in a lowland rainforest where I was extremely lucky to see a rhinoceros viper, considered (by me) the most beautiful snake in Africa.
Nyabugogo Bus Terminal
My trip starts here, early in the morning at the Nyabugogo Bus Terminal in Kigali. A bustling place, but well organised. A few minutes after I arrived, I found my bus, and the check-in was a breeze. My destination: Cyanika border with Uganda.
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
My first stop in Uganda was the Ruhija sector in Bwindi. The journey there was long, but incredibly scenic, through valleys with plantations of banana, sweet potato, and tea. The best part was the views of the Virunga volcanos, which together with the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest constitute the last remaining refuge of the Mountain gorilla (Gorilla beringei beringei). Throughout the area the pressure on the forests is noticeable. Outside the national park, and another small reserve or two, there wasn't a single patch of forest.
Clouds rolling over primary rainforest in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
Forest under pressure from deforestation and agriculture expansion
Cinnamon-chested bee-eater (Merops oreobates)
Regal sunbird (Cinnyris regius), endemic to the Albertine Rift
Long-crested eagle and ferns
Black-billed turaco (Tauraco schuettii) in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Often heard. Its iconic roaring call echoes across the forest. Seeing it is a different story though. With some luck it would come into view, for a split second, before disappearing again in the canopy. In spite of not getting the clean shot I was looking for, I love those moments with wildlife. It's a reminder that we're visitors in their home, and we're fortunate to catch even the shortest glimpse of their splendor.
Lush equatorial forest at “The Neck” section of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest - excellent for spotting some of the area's endemic birds and other specialists
L’Hoest’s monkey (Cercopithecus lhoesti) on a fig, where it was happily feeding. Rainforest specialist found in montane areas of the Albertine Rift in Uganda, the DRC, Rwanda and Burundi. This individual was found at the edge of Bwindi National Park, where some bushmeat hunting still occurs and they’re in general more skittish around humans.
Female Rwenzori three-horned chameleon in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. The species is endemic to the Albertine Rift, found in mid to high altitude forests. Although they adapt easily and are common in some areas, their habitat is restricted and the forests in their range are disappearing. I was happy to spot so many of them, up to seven in a single night at the forest edge in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Mostly juveniles and a few adult females.
Mountain Gorillas
It was an amazing and at the same time humbling experience to see our relatives so in tune with their environment and kindly accepting us in their home. We in turn have managed to encroach on their habitat and poach them to near extinction. Conservation efforts in Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo have been successful in helping them recover from population decline. But they're still critically endangered, and they need our help. Going trekking with them is a great way to do that. It's a beautiful adventure and the gains from one's visit contribute directly to their conservation and benefit the communities surrounding the National Park.
Blackback mountain gorilla (Gorilla beringei beringei) taking a break from munching tree bark. They eat it for the sodium.
While others were taking cover from the rain, this young gorilla seemed not to mind it much and came to check us out
Qeen Elizabeth National Park
African white-backed vultures feeding on a young elephant's carcass in Queen Elizabeth National Park. Many species of old world vultures are critically endangered due to loss of habitat and hunting, and mass poisonings are frequently reported.
Buffalo with snare trap on leg. Illegal hunting for bushmeat is still a big problem in Uganda
Fishermen on the Kazinga Channel
Hippos in the Kazinga Channel, where they're a common sight
Rwenzori Mountains
My next stop was the Ruboni community at the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains. Besides the most stunning views of the trip and a lovely village, the area offered loads of beautiful forest to explore. I stayed at the community-run accommodation, out of which the profits go to education and women's empowerment programs.
Montane side-striped chameleon (Trioceros ellioti). Common in forests and rural areas along the Albertine Rift, and during my stay in Uganda it was the species I saw most.
A young Rwenzori three-horned chameleon resting on a vine
Rwenzori three-horned chameleon (Trioceros johnstoni) in the Rwenzori National Park
Rwenzori plate-nosed chameleon (Kinyongia xenorhina). Found in the forests inside the Rwenzori National Park and sometimes also in plantations and eucalyptus groves in the surrounding communities.
Rhinoceros Viper
Found during an expedition with local guide Michael, a great guy who dedicates his time to rescuing and rehabilitating snakes at the Entebbe reptile village. We spent several hours searching in a dense rainforest not far from Kampala, where finding this particular species was the last of our expectations. Main targets were genus Atheris and Gaboon vipers.
The forest there is lovely. On our walks we heard a group of endemic Uganda mangabey, and spotted several species of bird. Unfortunately, it's also fragmented and under enormous pressure from sugarcane plantations. While I was there I saw how expanses of rainforest had been cleared, and rivers polluted with waste from the sugar production. The future doesn't look bright for the habitats of these amazing creatures.
